Hyderabad left us in awe as we explored the ancient and the modern quarters of the city while sampling its famed cuisine

History has always been my favourite subject. And so, my interest in places connected with history. Although almost every major city in India has its own hoary tales to tell, places like Lucknow, Hyderabad, Kolkata and Delhi are steeped in history, making them all the more interesting. Therefore, ever since I planned my maiden trip to Hyderabad, several old stories related to the city started unfolding in my mind. I read up more about Hyderabad on the Internet or by calling up friends living there or had been there. The city is known by several names, such as City of Pearls, City of Nizams, City of Charminar, a Biryani hub and many more. This 400-year-old city was founded by the Qutb Shahis on the river Musi in 1590 and has a lore connected to it. Said to be named after the beloved of Mohd Quli Qutb Shahi ~ Bhagmati ~ the city was first named Bhagyanagar and later changed to Hyderabad after the title Hyder Mahal, conferred on Bhagmati. Soon after India gained Independence, after a brief resistance, Hyderabad merged with the Union of India and became the capital of Andhra Pradesh. It is now the capital city of Telangana state.

Also read: Delhi’s Jama Masjid: An architectural marvel (travellernook.com)

Stepping off

My enthusiasm to explore the city got a rude shock on arrival at the Rajiv Gandhi International airport. Confronted by a huge crowd at the arrival gate, apparently waiting to greet relatives coming in from the Middle-East, we were unable to spot our driver and his placard for a good 20 minutes. When we did locate him, the short Hindi-speaking man soon put us at ease and was to be very helpful over the next three days of our stay in the city. It took us around 40 minutes to reach our hotel in Gachibowli, the IT Capital. Holiday Inn Express and Suites Hyderabad, Gachibowli, turned out to be a perfect location for any business visitor. Fitted with 232 rooms, the hotel is surrounded by several towering buildings. The rooms are well-designed, with free Wi-Fi and the regular paraphernalia such as flat-screen TV, mini-bar and, tea and coffee making equipment. The suites also have microwave ovens.  Before freshening up, we thought of eating something. However, the hotel has a limited choice for breakfast. But one has the grab and go option, or for those who don’t want to eat there, on can pack from the spread. Post lunch, it was time to explore the city. After duly consulting the hotel manager, we chose to visit Golconda Fort first due to its proximity.

Also read: Sharjah: Awash with lights (travellernook.com)

Beauty in stone

When one thinks of forts, Rajasthan instantly comes to mind. But this beautiful ruins of a fort, once the capital city of a flourishing Golconda Sultanate, is worth special attention. The evening’s sound and light show unfolded the saga of Golconda over centuries. Built by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1525, the Golconda Fort epitomises the nawabi culture. In Telugu, Golla Konda means shepherd’s hill. Legend has it that on a rocky hill called Mangalavaram, a shepherd boy came across an idol. He conveyed this to the king, who was ruling at that time. The king got a mud fort constructed around the spot. Over a period of time, the construction was expanded into a massive fort of granite. Known for being a trading post for diamonds, famous brilliants, including the Kohinoor, Hope Diamond and Orloff Diamond of Catherine the Great were found here. The fort itself is an architectural wonder. Among some of the marvels is one where sound travels from the entrance to a pinnacle on the other side. A clap at a certain point below the dome at the entrance reverberates and can be heard clearly at the highest point of the fort, almost a kilometre away. From Golconda we headed towards the Hussain Sagar lake, in the middle of which stands a statue of the Buddha. Night view here is really beautiful, surrounded as it is by multi-coloured lights. It was 10 pm when we returned to the hotel and the only thing running through our minds was food. We headed for the hotel’s multi-cuisine restaurant ~ Jonathan’s Kitchen.

Also read: 48-hours in Gangtok (travellernook.com)

City spree

 The whole of next day we reserved for the Old City. This part is like any other old city of the country, where one can find remnants of homes built in the Islamic, Maharashtrian and Rajasthani styles ~ a testimony of the city’s cosmopolitan culture. The Old City has many historical places like the iconic Charminar, Mecca Mosque, Chowmahalla Palace and Purani Haveli. Our first stop was Charminar ~ its four towering minarets house a mosque and 45 prayer spaces. It was built in the 16th century, when the city was hit by a plague epidemic. No one can give a miss to Laad Bazar ~ a market of traditional and bridal jewellery. Here, one can buy pearls, bangles, clothes and, of course, can taste the best non-vegetarian food the city can offer. Even if one is not shopping, this market can tempt a visitor to spend several hours. Done with shopping, our next destination was Mecca Masjid, one of the largest and oldest mosques of India, which is just a few minutes’ walking distance from the Charminar. Legends believe the bricks used here were brought from the holy city of Mecca. From there, one can also visit Chowmahalla Palace ~ once home to the Nizams in Hyderabad. For those interested in antiques and art, the Salar Jung museum is the best place to spend a whole day. It houses the collection of Salarjung, the erstwhile Nizam’s minister, who picked up works of art from all over the world. For the movie-crazy, one could visit Ramoji film city. Located 65 km from the city, it is the largest integrated film city in the world.  However, when at the end of our trip we tried to recall the best of Hyderabad, it was food that surfaced first. Trust me, in terms of Biryani and Haleem, no one can compete Hyderabad. For both dishes, Paradise Hotel as well as Ghouse Café and Restaurant are the best places.