And then it snowed. And it snowed. Soon the verdant hills of Mussoorie were covered in a blanket of white. An ethereal beauty unfolded itself as children and the young at heart rushed out to catch the snowflakes falling thick and fast. We were assured that the snow would soon stop and melt off the ground in a couple of hours. But it was not to be. A steadily increasing snowfall that piled higher by the hour saw our plans of visiting Chamba and Dhanaulti being scrapped. It snowed the whole day, from 6.30 in the morning to nearly 5.00 in the evening. We learnt that it was the heaviest snowfall since the past 12 years. At least two feet of snow transformed the landscape and weighed the branches of trees while piling up on rooftops. There was nothing for us to do but be holed up inside the hotel. A couple of us ventured out into the Mall Road, which was full of people out to enjoy the snow. We dodged snowballs as we made our way to the Cambridge Book Depot, in the hope of getting some news of author Ruskin Bond, who visits  this store every weekend. Not just, as we anticipated, was the author unable to make it, but the bookstore was also shut. And so, it was back to our hotel, where endless cups of tea and yarns and tales saw us through the day.

Also read: Manali: Stepping into abode of Gods (travellernook.com)

Glorious sight
 
We were lucky though to have had a clear sky the previous evening as the famed Winterline caught us by surprise. As the sun set, there it unfolded beyond the hotel window. We rushed out, cameras clicking, as the setting sun played out an unforgettable light show. Winterline, a unique phenomenon of nature, seen only at Mussoorie in the country (the only other place in the world it can be viewed is at Switzerland), is visible when the setting sun drops below the imaginary horizon overlooking the Doon Valley. The horizon is a mauve and grey coloured strip with yellow and orange coloured line at the upper end of the strip. The myriad colours make for a pretty picture that leaves the spectator spell-bound. This Winterline is visible from mid-October to end of February. It is one of the rare sights that is typical of mountainous regions that have a valley spreading to the west. 
 
What ails the land?
 
When calamity struck the upper reaches of the Ganga in Uttarakhand last year on 16 June, the entire state was labeled as "unsafe". According to one report, there was a Rs 12.5 crore loss in the deluge that ravaged Uttarkashi and left the famous Kashi Vishwanath temple inundated and the riverside buildings collapsing like a deck of cards. Television images of the destruction and extensive media coverage brought quick relief measures to the area but left a stamp of fear among tourists. "Mussoorie is nowhere near the river, yet we saw the place emptying out in just two days," recalled Sandeep Sahni, owner of Brentwood Hotel and member of Uttrakhand Tourism Promotional Forum. June-July, which is school vacation time, is the peak season as Mussoorie is close to Punjab and Delhi. "Hotels with 70-80 per cent bookings were reduced to 10 per cent by 17-18 June," said Sahni. "The calamity had a massive impact on Mussoorie’s economy as the hill-station is 100 per cent tourism driven." Mussoorie does not enjoy a round the year business even though it has much to offer the  year. People here earn in summer and carry their savings forward in winter, informed Sahni. However, Uttarakhand tourism department is trying to sell Mussoorie according to its five distinct seasons. While it is a popular destination in summer, Mussoorie in winter is a pretty sight. At a time when the entire north India is enveloped in thick fog or smog, the hill-station has either sun or snow. Autumn in between is distinct with a view of the hills in bright sun. Spring is always beautiful in the hills, with lush greenery and myriads of flowers. And monsoons in the hills bring a different flavour. Several detours are open from Mussourie and there is a need to make a tourism circuit, tour operators feel. For the religious tourists Chardham offers a tour of nearby temple towns. One can go to Dhanaulti for a view of the Himalaya and snowline. Tehri Lake and Sarkunda are the other destinations from here. Lakhamandal or Lakshagrah, said to date from Mahabharat times, where the Pandavas escaped a fire in their house of wax, is also nearby. One can also go to Haridwar and Rishikesh from the hill town as also Asan Barrage and Sehasadhara. "There is a huge potential waiting to be tapped," asserted Sahni.
Apart from hotels, the place has a number of guest houses as well as homestays. While the Supreme Court banned new construction in 1995, one can rebuild old property. Infrastructure is improving, say the townspeople. Good eateries, shopping and zero crime makes Mussoorie a haven for tourists, they add. While the town is not designed for traffic, peak season sees a flood of cars apart from some 5,000 local cars. Which is why, parking is at a premium, with most vehicles forced into parking lots at the entrance. For the intellectually bent, Mussoorie is home to several authors of national repute. Ruskin Bond, who is looked upon as a brand ambassador, has a house in these hills and comes here every weekend. The others include Stephen Alter, Hugh and Colleen Ganzer. "There is no industry in these hill and tourism is the only economy," noted Sahni. "This problem was realized post the disaster, when everyone faced problem." How one can get over this dilemma without spoiling the natural beauty is a moot issue.

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Down the Ganga
 
It was almost noon the next day before we could bid Mussoorie adieu. The piled up snow made it difficult for cars to move out and it took a while for a path to be cleared till the main road. On our drive downhill, we encountered thousands of motorists taking advantage of a bright Sunday morning to catch a glimpse of the snow in the hills. Thanks to the traffic jam created, what should have been a 45-minute drive down, took us nearly four hours. After a late lunch at Dehradun, we made our way to Rishikesh, reaching the riverside camp late at night. We were met on the road skirting a ridge above the campsite by Toshi, our ever-cheerful caretaker in charge of the camp run by Red Chilli Adventure. It’s absolutely back to nature, with no running water or electricity in the camp, we were warned as Toshi guided us down the hill to the riverbed through a zig-zag path punctuated by rough stone steps. "It’s right here," he kept saying as we clambered down the path in pitch darkness, guided by solar lanterns that some of us held. The welcoming tent, that doubled as a dining area, was indeed a welcome sight for our wobbling knees. We were conducted to a row of tents that contained little more than camp beds. A constant gurgle of water told us we were close to water though we could see little in the dark despite a sky lit up with a carpet of myriad stars. zDinner and a cheerful bonfire kept us out till late. Morning saw us gasping in awe at the view outside the tents. Bound by steep hills in a valley, we were on the river Ganga’s sand bank. No words can describe the serenity and morning calm by the riverside as we sat sipping hot tea. We now saw the steep path that Toshi led us down the previous night and were for once thankful it had been dark. A kitchen tent, bathroom tents and pit toilets completed the basic amenities of the camp. We were loath to leave this piece of paradise but a hearty breakfast later saw us huffing and panting up the steep path, envying the nimble-foot Toshi and his men hauling our luggage up.

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Headlong into rapids
 
A short drive down took us to the starting point of the rafting course. A brief yet detailed instruction after we changed into wet suits, lifejackets and helmets, saw eight of us plunging into the river. A thrill of a lifetime followed with three levels of rapids, each carrying a name, pitching us forward. The rapids were interspersed with calm waters, when we could look around and note the watermark left by the 16 June deluge of last year. The most dangerous rapid, called The Wall, is now out of bounds for rafters after a fatal mishap a few years back, we were informed. Battling the level 3 rapids, we could only wonder what The Wall would be like. The three-hour run seemed to be over in no time and we trudged back to our waiting cars and a long drive back home.

Also read: Four points in Mussoorie (travellernook.com)